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jeudi 17 avril 2008

Toqs au Laos


Sortir du Vietnan a été un jeu d'enfant. D'ailleurs les nôtres ont bien joué, surtout le dernier. Dès la frontière laotienne, le ton était donné : Gaspard sur les genoux des douaniers, parcourant leurs bureaux, récoltant jus d'orange et mille calins. L'entrée au Laos aussi est simple, il n'y a pas un papier à faire pour le véhicule, on entre juste quoi. Puis le choc : une route vide, très très peu de véhicules, et bordant cette route, quelques villages de maisons de bois sur pilotis, quelques animaux, mais surtout des champs des rizières à perte de vue. Et des centaines de papillons jaunes qui dansent autour de nous. Après la circulation et la foule vietnamienne, nous avions déjà l'impression d'un grand bol d'air frais. Même s'il fait plus de 40 degrés.
Nous avions retrouvé notre ami allemand (Nelly t'es contente ?) et nous sommes donc installés pour une soirée de retrouvailles, de debriefing et de projets, sur un magnifique champ entre les vaches et leurs bouzes. Quelques enfants du village sont venus nous saluer, mais ils sont restés discrets et souriants, attendant nos poubelles et se réjouissant des biscuits que nous leur offrions. Ce matin du coup on a fait une bonne séance de lecture pour tous, il est toujours émouvant de voir combien tous les enfants aiment les livres, surtout ceux-là qui vivent dans une misère incroyable, il suffit de les voir et aussi de les sentir pour s'en rendre compte... Puis partout sur la route nous avons reçu cet accueil, Gaspard sait déjà dire "bo !" à toutes les laotiennes qui sont folles de lui, mais il ne se fait pas prier pour aller avec elles grignoter en cuisine, caresser les chèvres et récolter fruits et sucreries.
Et puis, comme ça faisait bien quelques temps que nous n'avions pas eu de nouvel an, nous nous sommes rattrapés : c'est aujourd'hui le nouvel an bouddhique. Donc partout dans les rues et les temples les gens, et surtout les enfants s'aspergent d'eau et aspergent les passants. Vous imaginez la joie de nos blancs becs qui s'adaptent très vite à ce genre de tradition, surtout par cette chaleur. Et nous avec tous les voeux de bonheur que nous aurons reçus durant ce voyage, puisque c'est environ le septième nouvel an que nous célébrons, nous n'avons plus à nous inquiéter de notre avenir, nous pourrons même partager et assurer un peu le vôtre !
Nous avons fêté cette nouvelle année au restaurant, nous régalant de viande que nous grillons au centre de la table tout en faisant bouillir aussi nos pâtes et nos légumes autour du brasero, le tout en écoutant quelques laotiens nous régaler de karaoké (on n'en a pas encore parlé mais en Asie c'est vraiment le sport national). On s'est tellement régalé que Ulysse a fait une allergie, que bien sûr pour la seconde fois du voyage je n'avais pas la trousse d'urgence avec moi (la première était le soir de notre arrivée à Kuala Lumpur et il nous avait gratifiés d'un urticaire géantissime), qu'il est donc parti avec Xtophe en courant au Toqcar. Mais c'est simple au Laos : Christophe a arrêté un type en moto, qui n'a rien compris mais a immédiatement dit oui et les a fait monter derrière lui pour les déposer au camion. Finalement ce n'était pas grand chose mais on a bien ri puisque notre héros a eu les lèvres qui ont triplé de volume. Et puis comme deux des convives avaient déserté, ça a permis au mendiant unijambiste et au visage si beau et si triste que Gaspard avait adopté de manger un repas correct. On apprend à vivre avec la misère mais on ne peut pas s'habituer...
Nous sommes donc à Savanakhet, ville frontière avec la Thailande, au bord du Mékong. Une ville très paisible. Nous sommes venus frapper à la porte de l'église Sainte Teresa qui nous semblait toute indiquée, et avons été reçus comme le messie. Père Philippe (un des 15 prêtres du Laos) a déjà été adopté par les enfants, c'est un prêtre formidable drôle intéressant ouvert, qui nous explique le pays, nous emmène acheter le pain, qui invite Gaspard, lequel ne se fait pas prier, à partager son petit déjeuner, qui nous ouvre sa maison (historique) et voulait même nous loger dans des chambres. Avec lui nous avons rencontré aussi Père Antoine, Père Antoine et Père Antoine, deux d'entre eux étant vietnamiens, eux aussi des hommes généreux et ouverts et tous parlant un français qui vous ferait pâlir. Nous allons donc rester au moins une nuit de plus dans ce paradis. Nos enfants jouent comme des anges dans le beau jardin de l'église, sorte d'Eden de pots en terre plantés de plantes et d'arbres exotiques, auquel des travaux en cours ajoutent du charme pour nos explorateurs toqués, nous pouvons travailler calmement et commencer les cahiers de révision apportés par Amatxi, et donc une fois de plus grâce à une église, commencer dans la zénitude et la grâce notre nouvelle année bouddhique.

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44 commentaires:

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Ça a l'air chouettos...
Bisouilles !

Na a dit…

T'as vu les photos, Ximun ?

Incroyables et géniales, ces célébrations de nouvel an qui jalonnent votre chemin !
Et ce matin, en découvrant Paolo en pleine lecture, tout tranquille dans sa chambre (depuis qq temps, il se réveille tôt, mais attend gentiment que notre réveil sonne et que nous émergions à notre tour), je me suis dit la même chose que toi au sujet des livres. Que c'était dix fois plus important et plus riche pour un enfant que n'importe quel jouet.

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OUi oui j'ai vu l'album !
Mais j'attends la suite...
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TT, as tu bien recu les coordonnées du contact laosien?

MaRie a dit…

Incroyable ces photos, et vous avez de nouveau chaud? Non là désolée je n'y crois plus!
Moi aussi je continue de voyager depuis mon retour: Saint Etienne pas plus tard qu'hier, mais bizarrement ça semble moins exotique!
Bises à tous, on est bien contents de profiter encore un peu de vos récits mais maintenant qu'on y a gouté... Vivement le retour!
(Noé ce matin trés tranquillement à annoncé à son papa que plutôt que chez nounou, il irait:"à Hanoï, au Viet Nam, pour voir mon cousin Gaspard"...)

MaRie a dit…

Et les livres.... Ah le bonheur de lire tous les soirs sur le pot l'histoire de la petite taupe qui voulait savoir qui lui avait fait sur le tête!

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serai-il possible d'avoir une photo d'Ulysse avec les lèvres d'Emmanuelle Béart?

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je vous imagine sur les petites routes et les beaux paysages... il parait qu'il y a encore des elephants? est-ce vrai?
on attend le prochain reseau et nouvelles photos!

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